From the main highway in Marigat, a small town in Kenya’s Great Rift Valley, the sun rises over the waters of Lake Baringo. This vast freshwater lake, home to over 500 species of birds and fauna, plays a crucial role in the lives of the local community. The lake supports seven species of freshwater fish, including the Nile tilapia subspecies, Oreochromis niloticus baringoensis.
Beyond its ecological significance, Lake Baringo is central to the local economy, mainly through fishing. The communities around the lake depend on it for water, livestock, and fish, which have been integral to their way of life for generations. However, the lake is also home to Nile crocodiles, dangerous to those living nearby.
The Nile crocodile is a natural inhabitant of Lake Baringo. Its proximity to human activity can sometimes lead to dangerous encounters. However, in Kampi ya Samaki, a settlement on the lake’s shores, a group of women has found a way to coexist with these animals, ensuring their safety and livelihood.
Lilian Chebui, a fish vendor from Kampi ya Samaki, has worked in the fish trade since 2007. “I started my fish business after getting married,” she recalls. “It’s been 17 years now.” Chebui waits for the fishermen to return with their catch every day, which she sells to her buyers.
Chebui and her fellow fish vendors have adapted to the changing conditions around the lake, including the increasing crocodile population. “We have lived with the crocodiles around here for a very long time,” Chebui says. “When they come to us, we feed them – the spoiled fish.”
Feeding the crocodiles has helped the women avoid attacks, allowing them to work without fear. On a good day, Chebui earns up to KSH 2,000 (USD 15), which helps support her family and educate her children.
Emily Chebet, who started in the fish trade three years ago after closing her shop during the COVID-19 pandemic, shares a similar experience. “On a good day, I can make between KSH 7,000 and KSH 9,000,” she says. She adds that the relationship with the crocodiles is built on mutual understanding: “Once they’re fed, they have no problem with anyone.”
Stella Chepkoech, the chair of the fishing camp, has also seen the benefits of this coexistence. “We interact mainly with seven crocodiles,” she explains. Although she has been in the trade since childhood, learning from her mother, she has never experienced a crocodile attack.
However, the women face challenges, particularly the lack of adequate infrastructure such as refrigeration and sufficient boats. “Improved facilities could enhance our economic stability,” says Samuel Cherotich, Kampi ya Samaki’s beach chairperson.
Despite these challenges, the women of Lake Baringo continue to support their families and maintain their way of life. Their story is one of adaptation to the challenges imposed by nature and the community’s need to balance their safety with their livelihoods. Their work is not just about survival but about maintaining a balance with nature.